Hi guys,I've been reading a lot of wedding photography books, and it seems a lot of the awesome pics are taken at 1/60s shutter speed, and I'm beginning to wonder why! And please dont tell me it's because of low-light situations or using a tripod.most images I've taken with 1/60 arent tack sharp (full-res). I feel I need to be at least 1/125 to get very sharp images.

1. Nikon Ne 20s Owners Manual Programs For Weddings Online
2. Nikon Ne 20s Owners Manual Programs For Weddings 2017

Boosting ISO isn't a huge problem nowadays with technology, and they could have easily increased the shutter speed to reduce shake/blur, but chose not to. That being said, WHY are most amazing wedding pics taken at 1/60?

Is there something magical that happens at that shutter speed?Note: this question is in regards to non-flash, handheld photography. 'please dont tell me it's because of low-light situations.' So what answer ARE you looking for?There is definitely nothing magic about 1/60th sec. But my work inside the church does produce a lot of photographs at speeds somewhere between 1/30th sec and 1/100th sec.

1/60th sec might indeed be an average or close to.I don't usually use a tripod in the church (except for the formals, and then I'm using flash). I shoot Pentax so I have a couple image-stabilized bodies with me. (Nikon and Canon shooters may be using image-stabilized lenses.) A wedding ceremony isn't (usually) an athletic event, and the subjects tend to be pretty still, so I CAN shoot at 1/60th sec and hope to get photos that are sharp or sharp enough. A tripod won't help me much because if I get slower than about 1/30th sec, subject movement becomes a bigger risk than camera shake and neither image-stabilization nor a tripod can do anything about that. In other words, I can get to 1/60th sec or 1/30th sec hand-held - and that's about as slow as I would dare to go even if the camera were mounted in steel.Now, the ONLY reason that I do this is that the light in just about every church I've shot in is pretty subdued.

I push my ISO up pretty high - shots in the church are typically between 800 and 1600. And I open my lenses up wide: I'm typically shooting at f/2.8 or, when possible, faster than that. But if I'm shooting at 1/60th sec it's because, even after pushing the ISO up high and opening up wide, I STILL need to slow down the shutter to get a decent shot.

And even then, I simply count on the shots inside the church having a certain degree of noise.I think there's nothing more mysterious to it than that - and I suspect everybody else's answer will be pretty similar.Will. 1/60th is somewhat that magic setting to stop motion, yet good enough to pick up background light.This is probably due to the film days when most photographers used an ISO setting of 100 to 400. Shooting at a shutter speed of 125th of a second often made the backgrounds go too dark. Shooting at a 30th often showed a slight people movements, shooting at a 15th of a second required the use of a tripod and a very steady hand if you don't use a pod. Image stabilizing lenses weren't around until the onset of digital, perhaps about 2 years before digital.

I think the first IS lenses were from Canon, the 100-400mm then shortly after that Nikon came out with the 80-400mm, which was in the late 1990's.During the film days you limited your amount of shooting because you had to pay about 50 cents per print. Most photographers during that time only shot around 200 to 250 images. This is another reason why 1/60th was the standard for most inside work.

This resulted in only a few wasted prints. Probably not more than 10 to 15 images. Needless to say it's another world with digital. I've heard of a few people taking 8000 shots per wedding. This would bankrupt you in one wedding during the film days. It's a film thing, like Bob already said.

I would shoot most of the wedding at around 1/60 at f5.6 or 5.6 1/2 with whatever manual flash setting I needed. If I was in mixed-bright sun I would just adjust the shutter to 1/250, maybe f8. But by far mostly 1/60. Often I would drag the shutter and shoot indoors at 1/15 or 1/8, the flash freezes the motion direct in front of you, the slower shutter picks up the background. Digi will be similar but you have to adjust some, I'm not that sharp with digi yet, so I'm not going to comment on something I haven't done enough of to know exactly what I'm saying.

Alen,Bob and Dave said the same thing in long form. But if you understand what they are saying, you will realize that half of their answer is to do with 'LOW LIGHT' and being able to pull in some ambient, and the other half of their answer is subject movement.1/60th is the old sand by that most togs who have some experience handholding, choose for the reasons stated. If you go back far enough, it was the number that studios used as the ideal for portraits, after the advent of modern lighting (post 1970 era).There are a plethora of good reasons for choosing your SS, but those two are the most common. 'As a side question, don't you find 1/60 gives you hand-shake and isn't as sharp as could be??' - AlenThis totally depends on your lens of choice. As a general rule of thumb, not using any stablizing type of lens or body, you go by the focal length of the lens to seconds. For example, if you are using a 50mm lens you probably shouldn't handhold under 50th of a second.

If you are using a 500mm lens than this translates to 500th of a sec. So the longer the lens the faster your shutter speed should be.Camera shake should not be an issue with a standard lens (50mm) and at 60th/sec, but if you are using a 500mm at 60th expect to see a lot of camera shake.You can shoot at a low speed, such as a 15th of a second using flash. The flash will stop movement. The problem with using your on camera flash unit is often the images look flat. So take a second look at the photos you like in the books you are reading, most likely your favorate pics will be the use of creative lighting techniques and not the on camera flash.

Alen, do you want me to give you a line of Bull%.(&%(%. OF COURSE IT'S DUE TO LOW LIGHT. As others have stated it can be due flash sync speed.If you ever have the opportunity to attend a wedding you will see what dungeons we usually shoot in. Many times I'm shooting at ISO 1600-3200 f/2.8 and 1/30 just get close to the exposure I need.If you can't hand hold at 1/60 you are either shooting with too long of a lens for you to hold or you're going to have some serious issues being a wedding photographer. 'Ha Ha!240volts 50Hz down here and across the pond.

Nikon Ne 20s Owners Manual Programs For Weddings Online

A bit criptic I was about the 1/50th - sorry for that. I like your work, Lloyd!WW'Thanks William. You have a nice gallery. I take it you're from down under? Lots of great wedding photographers there. Yeah, much of the world runs at 50Hz, and over 200V. Ironically, 220V+ would be great, but 60Hz is better overall from an efficiency and output standpoint.Back to topic.

Actually many of the worst wedding photos I see are at 1/60, because that's the default shutter speed setting for a flash photo while in Program mode. 'It's a 'shake' legacy for me. 30 years ago when I was first learning, my instructor told me 'never shoot below 1/60 handheld.' .BoorayI'm afraid you have over-simplified what your instructor was telling you. You were likely using a standard 50mm lens in which case 1/60th is typically safe from camera shake. However, if you had a longer focal length such as 125, 200, etc., then 1/60th would not prevent camera shake. The rule of thumb is to consider the focal length.

Such as 28mm = 1/30th, 50mm = 1/50th, 125mm = 1/125th etc.you can also add just an extra touch of fudge factor in which case 50mm = 1/60th, just to be on the safe side. It's also true that experienced photographers can push these suggested 'rule of thumb' boundaries with careful attention to posture, bracing, breath control, etc.

Nikon Ne 20s Owners Manual Programs For Weddings 2017

Where To Buy+ free ground shippingMore Information About the Nikon NE-100The Nikon NE-100 is a digital theodolite designed for both survey and construction work, and is IP54 water proof certified, meaning that the theodolite will be unaffected by water from any angle.Affordable and giving you accurate measurements with a simple-to-use interface, the NE-100 has a host of features to make field work easier: a 4-key, one-touch interface operates commands on a back-lit LCD display. The display has a built-in reticle illuminator, allowing you to work in dark conditions including tunnels, mines and buildings or outdoor scenarios with poor or no light.Set apart from other theodolite makes, the Nikon NE-100 runs on standard AA alkaline batteries for 48 hours with normal operation. An icon on the LCD screen displays the amount of power remaining.Several frequently used features an be performed on the Nikon NE-100: reset horizontal angle to '0,' lock a horizontal angle on your LCD screen while repeating/repositioning a measurement and convert vertical angles to percent-of-grade.